Thursday, March 17, 2011

Taiohae Bay

The tropical rain is falling, cooling off Nuku Hiva from the high heat and humidity.
According to locals, the low-lying areas of this tropical paradise are unusually dry and the rain is a welcome relief. They haven't had a true "rainy season" for a few years and the foliage is suffering from the lack of water. The peaks and valleys up higher receive good precipitation from the squalls that roll through, and they're bursting with green.
We've had a great few days exploring the island and Taiohae Bay.
There has been a significant resurgence in maintaining traditional Marquesan history and culture and there are several newly restored ceremonial sites along the waterfront, shaded by massive banyan trees. We also visited Rose Corser, a former cruiser who's lived in Nuku Hiva for the past 20 years, and her unique Marquesan artifact museum.
Yesterday, we launched the kayak and paddleboard and toured the eastern side of our bay. We paddled to the point, about three miles, and got a great workout. We dined on the wharf at a great little local spot and feasted on poisson cru, our favorite! We visit the open-air (marche) every morning to devour the local bounty such as pamplemousse (grapefruit), breadfruit, mangos, and fresh veggies, including tomatoes to rival those from Michigan summers. And don't forget the fresh-daily baguettes!
We don't have a definite plan yet, but we're headed to Taipivai (Comptroller Bay) on the southeast side of the island. For all you readers, it's the valley where Herman Melville deserted to and spent six months 'captive' with the tribe. We'll do some exploring and hiking on shore to see ancient tikis and sacred grounds.
We'll likely visit Daniel's Bay, and travel along the protected west coast to scuba dive. Then we'll head to the northeast side of the island and Anaho Bay, which many people claim to be the nicest anchorage in all of the Marquesas. We will give you our opinion on that!

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