We had a beautiful sail from Taipivai around the eastern tip of Nuku Hiva Monday morning. We snagged a sweet 7-pound mahi-mahi and were chased down by acrobatic dolphins for most of the trip.
I was feeling pretty rundown, and opted to rest after we anchored up in Baie de Anaho, a picturesque and protected spot with coconut groves and white sandy beaches. Unfortunately, my illness worsened and I spent Tuesday and Wednesday in bed, while Chris knocked out various Namaste projects. Sucks being sick in paradise!
But after two days of being an invalid, I awoke Thursday with a new lease on life and we headed out around the point to check out the western adjacent bay, Hatiheu. We grabbed a mooring at the wharf and hiked into this secluded village surrounded by spectacular peaks. After a few wrong turns (classic Marquesan exploring) we found our first destination - Tohua Hikokua. It's an archeological ruin site and well-restored ceremonial plaza with tiki sculptures. These sites consist of raised rock-wall platforms, and open gathering areas.
We headed further upland and discovered Kamuihei, a massive temple complex, which is marked by a sacred and gigantic 120-foot banyan tree. Chris wanted to feel its power a bit closer and decided to climb up 50 feet. This incredible jumble of ruins sits in a quiet jungle, and its mana (strength) is very evident. The location was restored and includes new indigenous gardens, stone walls and building a house on its original paepae, or foundation.
Fully awed by the historical sites, we returned to town to chill at Chez Yvonne's for a few Hinanos. We had heard the food was amazing there and inquired about an early dinner. They were happy to oblige their only customers. I'm so glad we asked - the food was phenonmenal. We feasted on wahoo poisson cru in coconut milk with fried breadfruit and plantains. We made quick friends with Yvonne's cats and enjoyed a relaxing meal before dinghying back at sunset to Namaste.
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